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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” states the proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble shop securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary honour.